best video tripod This is a topic that many people are looking for. newyorkcityvoices.org is a channel providing useful information about learning, life, digital marketing and online courses …. it will help you have an overview and solid multi-faceted knowledge . Today, newyorkcityvoices.org would like to introduce to you Video Tripod Head Buying Guide // Best Fluid Head for the Money. Following along are instructions in the video below:
“Is my first video of 20 20. But we re covering the most requested topic topic from 2019 that i never got around to which is which fluid head. Do recommend let s get undone. What s happening everybody i m jael dun dun and the background is real.
But i m cg so today. We re going to talk about video heads. And more specifically. The smaller differences in video heads in the sub 500 range.
And how you can use this information to make a good purchase decision for your needs. I ve got a few carefully chosen examples here to demonstrate this so first up let s start with this one from i footage. The comodo k5. I talked about this head.
When i reviewed the eye footage monopod. I loved the monopod. But thought the head was a bit underwhelming for its price tag. Now to be fair.
Since then it has come down in price and isn t that bad of a value proposition anymore. But in either case. Let s take a look at what it s missing. So a big part of this heads appeal is that it s compact.
But that also means that we re making compromises on the features of a fluid head that are important those features are mostly about having control and this head doesn t give us a lot of it there s only two controls for pan and tilt. The pan is decided by this little knob down here which you can tighten and loosen. But it s essentially just a glorified lock. Because it doesn t really change the amount of resistance in a meaningful way it has a fixed amount of drag and while it does get harder to pan as we near the tightest position.
It s not a usable setting because we re fighting against the lock. Which then creates jumps and doesn t allow for a very smooth shot. So it s basically one drag setting and a lock combined now if you want to know more about how these fluid drag systems are made or why they re called fluid heads dale over at the vista you tube channel has already published a very informative video on the topic. So i ll defer to him with a link in the description.
But for an oversimplified explanation. There s some grease inside of the cavity between adjustable plates that control how easily the grease or fluid can flow through and with cheap heads like this one. It s only mechanism for resistance is by clamping down on those plates by tightening. The knobs.
But when that knob doubles as the lock. I find the amount of useful positions. Usually shrinks considerably and often end up with just a fixed amount of drag like we re seeing here now the tilt on this head is also controlled by a single knob. But it s a larger one at least and does have a slightly more refined control.
But again we only have about forty five degrees of useful range before we start to feel the lock come into play at which point. We require much more effort to start the motion than to finish. It so we get jerkier movements. Ideally you d want to isolate the lock and drag control.
So that your tilt feels consistent throughout the movement and you can lock it separately when needed which is exactly what you can do with our next head. The manfrotto 502. Now this head is very popular and is a pretty solid value..
But it s not perfect first off. Though let s look at what it has over the comodo so for this head you can lock off the tilt over here. If you want and then you can also lock off. The pan.
Under here. There s a knob this one s probably not ideally placed one of the complaints about this head is that some people don t like the position of the locks. But at least. It has them and then separately there s a dial over here that controls the drag of the tilt.
And then this whole red ring down. Here is what controls the drag for the pan and these controls have a reasonably long travels that you can be more precise over selecting the resistance. You prefer and this is important. If you plan on doing a lot of movements that require simultaneous panning and tilting.
Because if you can t dial in your resistance to feel natural and similar you get a very pronounced staircase effect while moving on an angle. Because you ll be panning and then tilting at different rates instead of in a straight line. So what i recommend this head yes. Especially considering.
It s still cheaper than the komodo is in many places online. It was only a hundred and forty five dollars on b and h last time i checked and in that price range. It s one of the best options just make sure that you re choosing the one that corresponds with your tripod because tripods can have bowls or flat bases. But this particular head is for a flat tripod.
But i believe it comes in both variations. Where the next head that we re going to look at is for a 75 millimeter bowl. Which will have sort of a concave socket on the top of the tripod now. There s still a couple things i don t like about this head.
Which you can eliminate if you spend more money for example. There s no control over the counterbalance you always want to balance your camera on your tripod. Otherwise tilting is a much worse experience. But on a head like this your only option is to completely loosen.
The tilt drag and then slide the plate back and forth. Until it doesn t seem to tilt in either direction. Then when you increase the tilt drag again. It should be able to hold itself at an angle without being locked down.
However this head has a fixed resistance for that because it s just controlled by a big spring behind this knob. So you can t make adjustments based on the weight of your camera. And you might find that when using too light of rigs. You ll hear and feel that spring pop while tilting and the is worsened by another problem with this head.
Which is that some of the older batches had an issue where that spring had a bit too much play and would actually slip out of the hole that it was supposed to be in before jolting back into place. If you end up with this issue. I would suggest swapping out the head but for me since mine wasn t returnable i fixed it by jamming a washer in there to produce its movement so it would stay positioned in the recess. But otherwise it kind of kicks out and then when you tilt back in you can feel it kind of like plunk back in like a spring sound for those that have never balanced a camera rig on a video head before let me show you how to do it.
So you take your camera. And i have one here that doesn t really require that difficult of balancing because it s pretty boxy and we ll put it into our well slide. The quick release in amin..
And then once we re in what we want to do is loosen off the ability to slide the quick release back and forth okay. Let me position this on the side. So you can see little bit better. And we ll make sure that we don t have our tilt lock on and then as you can see it s not really moving now.
It is drooping a little bit by the handle. But not a lot and that s because our drag is all the way up so if we loosen our drag all the way down then now any movement at all in the camera much like balancing a gimbal will you can see how loose. It is we ll let you know if it s balanced. So we want to have the camera in a position where when we let go it doesn t really tilt either way.
This is pretty good here because we can see the handles not moving if we were too far forward then it would do that and that s another reason. Why you want to make sure you have locking plates. So the camera doesn t slide out. But you can see now we re too far forward because if i let go it does that so just slide that back until it doesn t seem to tilt in either direction.
And then you lock down the position of the plate. So that it can t move and then check. It and we re good and now you can tighten up your tilt drag again. So that when you do tilt.
You can let go of it. And it should hold itself in that place. Even though. We still haven t engaged the tilt lock.
And now. It s perfectly balanced and if we tilt it up. It should hold and you should even be able to do pretty extreme examples and have it still stay perfectly. You know where it s not tilting in another direction and then this means.
It s balanced and this is going to give your tilts much easier control because as you can see i barely had to put any pressure on it. Which is the opposite of what i was saying about the comodo where there s kind of like a gettin star like like an acceleration. You have to get over you have to push a little bit harder and then starts to move which means at the beginning of your movement is completely useless. And you re only going to have so that sweet spot in the middle.
But this brings up an important point though. Which is to check the weight range for the counter balance. If it says something like 10 kilos or 20 pounds. And you re only using small mirrorless setups.
You ll probably have difficulties using that head and you d want to find one optimized for lighter payloads. However. Many of the premium more expensive heads will have weight ranges that go all the way down to zero or just two to three pounds and then up to 20 pounds. Allowing you to employ a range of camera configurations to success like our next head here the e image gho.
6. Now this head steps up in price considerably to 499. But it s the best value head available for the money in my. Opinion because you re getting performance that will usually cost you 1200 from the competition.
And it doesn t have any of the issues. We ve talked about thus far now this is a 75 millimeter bowl head like i was talking about so i m going to place it in this tripod over here and then we ll talk about some of the features so first off the deal with that counterbalance issue. We just talked about it has a dial ranging from one kilogram to about six kilograms of counterbalance support with the maximum recommended payload of about 13 pounds..
But it also has a zero counterbalance setting. Which is handy for finding that balance point of your camera rig or plate position. It also has numerical stops for the pan and tilt drag controls making it much easier than even the manfrotto to choose matching resistances and for easily. Remembering what position you like if you became a fan of number two.
Well you don t have to find a comfortable setting by finessing. A dial each time you just set them to two the next time you go to shoot. And the locks are separated of course and they aren t the more tedious dial kind. But rather more of a lever.
You can see one over here. That goes from unlocked to firmly locked in place. It also features a nice touch by allowing the quick release plate to be snapped in rather than being forced to slide through you just put it in on the side and then push it down and it snaps into place and best of all these plates are manfrotto standard. So you can interchange them with your other heads or your gimble s etc.
Now like i was saying earlier. There are other heads that i like like miller or. Zactly but they cost about 25. Times as much as this image gho six.
So for me. This is the best bang for the buck fluid head. Available. Which answers.
The question that i said was the most requested question from 2019. But as a general rule you can get a better deal on the head. If you buy it with tripod legs and in the case of the e image. You can get this 500.
Head with these 500 set of carbon fiber legs. For about 700 combined. Which is probably one of the best combo deals. Going considering.
I paid 450 dollars for my manfrotto combo that only came with your standard aluminum photo legs. Now i don t want to bog this video down with a whole section on tripod legs. So i ll just give you a couple quick notes. But something to look for right off the bat is having your legs be controlled by a single clamp or knob.
Rather than one for each stage. This tripod for example. The gc 7 52. Allows you to drop both stages by just turning this top knob.
This will save your back. If you ve got a heavy rig on here. Because you won t have to be constantly bending over to release the lower buckles to level or lower your camera. That would be the defining difference in my opinion between good video sticks and photography.
Sticks. And it s definitely worth the extra money and this will give you two ways to easily level. A setup..
Like this you can either do a quick change in height on one segment or by adjusting the bowl. And the leveling off that way and of course is a bubble level included on the head. So you can make sure everything is in order. But while we re on the topic of photography.
Let s quickly cover the other types of heads and their usefulness for video. One of the most common is the ball head and i m using one of these right now on my overhead rig and these are great when you only need a fixed position. But that position might need to be on a slight angle or tilted on axis that your standard pan and tilt can t provide they re also quite useful for sliders. If you plan to do vertical slides.
Because they allow you to put your camera easily into portrait mode. Because these heads are ideal for photography and then you can do your vertical slides. Like this while controlling what angle. The camera is facing there is another photography head.
However that is slightly more useful for sliders than even the ball head and that s the pan tilt head now this might sound a lot like a video head. But the main difference is it s not made for camera movements. So it doesn t have the fluid drag controls or counterbalance. And it also has the ability to tilt horizontally as well for when you want to go dutch or again.
When doing vertical slides. And you want to flip the camera quickly into portrait orientation. The difference over a ball head is that these can support more weight and have more control because they can t just move in all directions. So they re easy to keep perfectly level.
And this one here from manfrotto. Conveniently has bubble levels on each axis. So over all these heads are great for static positions. But i wouldn t use them for camera movement alright so i think that s about it this is a huge topic.
Obviously and we could spend several videos just discussing the different aspects like carbon fiber versus aluminum or the different quick release plates etc. But i m hoping however is that this video helps you figure out what aspects are important to you so you can make a more informed buying decision something to consider. Though is that tripods and heads generally last a lot longer than the rest of your camera gear. So don t be afraid to spend more than you might have wanted to because it ll be cheaper in the long run to buy a quality system once instead of buying less expensive systems.
That don t satisfy all of your needs. Multiple times throughout the years bending over to release the lower buckles to level. A little bomb hole level. A lot a little component.
And there is a higher level of precision for sure it because you won t have to be concerned that s between a good video bend over so much if you have a heavy rain garden. But that s gonna be it for me. I hope you found this video entertaining or at least helpful and if you did make sure you leave it the old thumbs up and consider subscribing. If you haven t already.
But if you did not find this video helpful or entertaining. Then it might be time to put down that ” ..
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